Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Costa Rica 2011 Travelogue

A summary of my amazing first trip to Costa Rica in July/Aug 2011.  I don't think I did any part of my trip justice, but I tried!  Enjoy!

Preparing for My Adventure

{Costa Rica 2011} - Day 12 - Final Day

On our final full day in Costa Rica, I woke up in my room at Hotel Banana Azul in Puerto Viejo early so I could try and capture a sunrise.  I had the entire beach to myself except for a friendly dog from the hotel that walked beside me, and it was incredibly relaxing.  Seemed like a perfect way to start my final day on the coast.

The purples and oranges of the sunrise have to be some of my colors in the world.

Sunrise at Playa Negra.

Sunrise and waves.
Gorgeous.
Later in the morning we had breakfast at the hotel and said our final farewells to the hotel pets.

Fat doggy.
More animals!
I really enjoyed our stay at the hotel and would recommend it to anyone looking for a convenient location with a good atmosphere and friendly staff (and pets).  :)

After the hotel breakfast we headed to another local restaurant that came highly recommended by friends and guidebooks called Bread and Chocolate.  They're known for their brownies but their breakfasts are also very popular.  We had a tasty breakfast that was more filling than we really needed and a delicious brownie and we got back on the road to San Jose.

Bread and Chocolate.
The famous dark chocolate brownie with walnuts.


I slept for a couple of hours on the way back to San Jose but woke up just in time to witness Tony's dad driving faster than he should be on the curvy, foggy roads of the rain forest.  We survived. :)

Back in San Jose we spent the rest of our time on last minute errands and preparing to head home.  We hit the local grocery store where we loaded up on more coffee and treats for friends and family back home and also got supplies for one of Tony's favorite meals when at home.

Tony is a cheese fiend.  I'm pretty sure he could eat it for every meal as the ONLY component of the meal.  I love cheese, but I'm not sure how he does it!  Our final meal at his mom's was cheese fondue.  She made a tasty cheese sauce with cheeses from the dairy in Monteverde (awesome cheese!) and we had a variety of breads to dip.  I honestly didn't think I had any more room for food in my stomach, but I managed to eat my share. :)

Our flight out the next morning was at 7:30am so we had yet another early morning ahead of us so that we could get to the airport on time.  After some creative packing and making good use of my baggage scale we were prepared to depart paradise.  I just hoped all of my baggage made it home and made it there in one piece!  Luckily, it did.

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What a wonderful trip!  I look forward to my next visit.  I want to spend more time at the beaches next time but I don't regret any of the choices we made for our visit.  I'm glad I got to see beaches, cloud forest, volcano, both coasts, the pineapples, etc, etc.  Now that I've had a broad view of the things that Costa Rica has to offer I look forward to spending time getting to know some of them even better.  And of course experiencing new things!  There's just so much to do and see it's hard to narrow it down. :)

{Costa Rica 2011} - Day 11 - Puerto Viejo

There's something about those ocean breezes coming in your room window that makes you sleep like a rock.  That and mass quantities of pasta and wine. :)  Regardless, Tony and I slept beautifully in our Red Frog room and were ready to start our final full day of fun in Costa Rica.

A stay at the Hotel Banana Azul includes breakfast which was a different fresh fruit juice offering daily, coffee, cereal, pastries, fruit and a special hot breakfast item made to order.  Breakfast was delicious both days and the staff was wonderful.

After breakfast we headed out in search of a beach.  Tony's dad thought he had an idea of where we were going but we couldn't seem to find a good swimming beach in the areas he was looking.  I had mentioned to him that the Cahuita National Park beach but he wasn't sure where that was.  We eventually found it and it was heaven.

Cahuita National Park beach.

The beach was pristine and I'm not sure if it was high tide or what but we could walk out forever and still not be deeper than out chests.

Tony and his dad and Johanna about 100ft from shore.
We once again, found a perfect shade tree and set up our towels for a lovely day at the beach.  I could have stayed there forever.  I knew better than to be out in the water for long periods of time given the sun and my ability to instantaneously burn, but I couldn't help it!  It was so lovely!

My natural sunscreen...the shady spot.
It wasn't as calm as Manuel Antonio but it was still amazing.  Being able to walk out to where the waves were just coming over top of themselves and having them come over you versus having them crash into you closer to shore was cool.  Just a different feeling.  I really didn't want to leave.  At all.


Standing in the water, taking a picture of heaven.
Look how clear the water is!  I was out about 25ft from shore.
Beauty in every direction.  And soccer on the beach!
Our shady spot form the water.

Eventually, we had to leave.  :( But on the way out of the park Tony's dad bought me a coconut so I could drink my beloved coconut water straight from the source!  Best coconut water ever! And it was like a dollar. What a deal!

Fresh coconut + straw = Happy Kim.  And look, no sunburn!
Side note, under that bridge is a little river.  And there are crocs!
All that swimming and relaxing made us hungry. :) Our next stop was another restaurant that came highly recommended by the guidebook and was just down the road from the beach.  Restaurante La Fe Bombata is a Caribbean restaurant that looks deceptively simple but it's clean and welcoming.  Take a risk! Go in and you'll be SO glad you did!

Restaurante La Fe Bombata

We were the only ones eating there in the middle of the afternoon and they let us bring in the beers we'd been drinking.  They were incredibly friendly and were happy to recommend dishes for us.  I'm fairly certain I couldn't go wrong with anything on the menu, however.  I got the shrimp coconut curry-ish dish.  They're famous for their coconut sauce and for good reason.  I wanted to stick my face in the bowl.  It came with a huge bowl of the shrimp and sauce and a plate of rice, salad and BREAD FRUIT.  OMG.  Can someone please tell me where in the hell to find bread fruit here?  It's literally a fruit that has the consistency of a dense bread.  I used it to mop up the sauce instead of licking the bowl clean.  :)  Of course, I had a tasty blended, boozy drink to go with it.  Look at the table, Pepsi in a glass bottle with real sugar, Imperial, blended tropical drink, coconut shrimp (mine), coconut chicken (Tony's), and of course sunscreen.  Can't get much better than that! :)

Caribbean meal to die for.

Not only was the staff okay with us bringing in our own beer, but they were actually excited for us when we went and bought patí from a guy selling them in the street.  I had to go buy one from this guy.  He'd ring his bell on his bike and people came from all over the place to buy his patí.  Patí is a very specific kind of empanada type thing that is specific to Limón.  A random dude on the street outside the restaurant saw me looking from the table and he told me they're the best patí I'll ever have and I needed to buy one.  Johanna and I went and bought some for our table for a total of four dollars and the hype was totally worth it.  They were filled with spicy meat and were freaking amazing.  The waiter of the restaurant told us that he's glad we got some because they're the best in the region and we'd be missing out if we didn't.  All of the people raving about them were locals that waited for him to come out and ring his bell every day.  So, not only did we bring beer into the restaurant but food, too!  And they were happy to let us!  Pura Vida indeed. :)

The patí from the street vendor.  I'm drooling.
After our meal we headed back to the hotel to relax in the pool and clean up a bit.  We also had our free drinks from checkin that we needed to use!  Tony and I grabbed some beers and headed to the pool!  We had plans to go to dinner at a famous seafood restaurant called Maxi's, but first we tried to find a sunset (again).  Tony's dad had "borrowed" a bottle of the nice Argentinian wine that we'd had during our dinner at Tony's grandpa's, so we took that to a table on Manzanillo beach on the way to the restaurant.

Fancy wine out of thermal mugs.
While not as pretty, it gave us a chance to chill and hope for the sunset in relative seclusion. There was even a tree with a branch perfect for photos!

Me and Tony at Playa Manzanillo.
Again, no "real" sunset.  Oh well, it was still pretty!
After our time at the beach we headed to Maxi's for a seafood feast!  As soon as we got out of the car you could smell the wood oven they used for the fish, and I swear there was some pot smoke mixed in there.  Honestly, it wouldn't surprise me! :)

Maxi's is famous for it's seafood so I had high expectations.

Maxi's at Playa Manzanillo.

We were pretty much exhausted before, during and after this meal.  Instead of beer I opted for coke in a glass bottle with real sugar. MMM.  Hoped it'd help me perk up, but no...caffeine does nothing to me. :)
Also, it was hot like fire in that upstairs dining area so that didn't help.

Sleepy.  And sweaty.

The food was good, but it was no Café Viejo!  The meal started with a special appetizer of little plantain bowls loaded with guacamole and bacon.  The lighting was bad so I apologize for the unflattering pictures.

Plantain appetizer.

I went with a mixed dish of whole red snapper and lobster.  Hey, if they're going to be known for lobster and the red snapper is also very popular I'm gonna try both!

My lobster and red snapper.

The red snapper was the highlight of my meal.  It had a great crust on it and a nice smokey flavor from the wood grill.  They're also supposed to be known for their rice and beans but I wasn't a fan.  There were far better rice and beans dishes at other places we visited during the trip.

After dinner we headed back to the hotel to get some much needed sleep for our drive back to San Jose the next day.  I'm so glad that Tony agreed to take me to the Limón province and that his dad was willing to drive us.  That part of the country is truly unique and I had an awesome time.  And I think the food that we had was some of the best of the entire trip!  It's definitely worth the time to get there.

{Costa Rica 2011} - Day 10 - Puerto Viejo

I broke this day into multiple posts since we did a lot and I had a lot of photographs to post.  The rest of the trip will be more condensed. :)

Puerto Viejo is a cool city.  Very laid back and Caribbean.  Tons of Jamaican flags and Bob Marley stuff everywhere!  Tony's dad did all of the hotel booking for the trip to Límon and originally had chosen a hotel that was more resort like.  A few days before we were supposed to go to Límon news broke that the government had forcibly shut down the resort for having been built illegally in a nature preserve.  Apparently, 18 years ago an injunction was in place to stop the builders (foreign) but they ignored it and built anyway.  It took 18 years before the government was able to enforce the ruling and boot them out.  Well, the hotel was large and employed many people so when the staff and guests were evicted there was rioting in the streets.  Seeing that in the papers a few days before we were supposed to head that way was definitely not a highlight of the trip. :) But, Tony's dad was able to book us into a different hotel and it worked out perfectly.  We checked into Hotel Banana Azul and headed to our rooms to get ready to check out Puerto Viejo.

Our room key and free drink tokens made of local seeds.


The hotel is situated on Playa Negra and it's a very comfortable and welcoming place.  Lots of seating in the common area, books and sunscreen to borrow, friendly kitties and doggies living there and a lovely pool.  The hot tub is the same temp as the rest of the pool, which is the same for most hotels in Costa Rica, but it was still nice!

Pool area at Hotel Banana Azul.
Lobby/Lounge area at the hotel.
A huge pond surrounding the lobby area with giant koi and turtles everywhere!

There were several regular rooms and a few themed rooms.  Tony and I got the "Red Frog" room which is named after it's super cool open air shower with an intricate tiled red frog wall.  Yup, open air means wide open windows all around.  Anyone could have come up to take a peek while I was showering.  Thankfully, no one did. :)

The Red Frog bathroom.

Private patio of the Red Frog room.
Sleeping area of the Red Frog room.

The room had no AC but had fans and wide open windows which, at night, provided plenty of comfortable breezes.  The bed also had a mosquito net which I made sure was securely tucked around our bed at night.  Mosquitoes love me!  During the day it was a little toasty, but we didn't spend much time in there anyway.  There was also a private patio with a little water feature, a table, and a hammock.  And a resident kitty. :)

We headed into town to grab a quick bite to eat at Amimodo, but we tried to keep it light since we knew we'd be hitting a recommended restaurant later that night.  I had a delicious frozen Limoncello drink that went down way too easily.

Limoncello drink!
The view from the beaches was, of course, lovely.  But again, no freaking sunset!  I need to go a different time of year next time and actually see the sun set into the ocean.  Don't get me wrong, it was still beautiful, but I want to see colors!

Playa Negra

After our snack, which turned out to be a mini-meal, we browsed the shops and then headed back to the hotel to the hotel to relax and clean up a bit.  Tony and I hit the pool and then fell asleep unexpectedly in the room.  We were supposed to meet his dad at 8:30 to head to dinner but instead we woke up at 9:30 and headed to the restaurant.  Luckily, they were one of the only restaurants open until 10:30pm.  I'm SO glad we made it to the restaurant because it was easily one of my favorite meals on the trip.

Tony's friends and my guidebook both recommended Café Viejo so we had to make a point to eat there.  It's an Italian restaurant operated by two brothers that moved to Puerto Viejo from Italy.  One of the brothers came to our table and made several recommendations based on our taste preferences.  He said we absolutely had to try the pasta and he recommended a wine for Tony's dad and I to share (we like sharing bottles of wine...tho he says I drink them all) and a dish that picky Tony would enjoy as well.  Their speciality is a traditional handmade pasta from their region of Italy called strozzapreti. It's kind of a thick  squiggly noodle that's absolutely delicious. I was sold.  I got the stozzapreti pasta with prosciutto, asparagus and a cream sauce.  I literally used my finger to get every drop of sauce out of my bowl.  Writing this blog makes me want to go back there immediately for more.  The picture doesn't do the dish justice, but I blame the lighting and having to use a flash.

Stozzapreti with prosciutto, asparagus and cream sauce.

Oh, before we got our meals they also brought out bruschetta on the house and it was some of the best I'd had. But that's not all, folks.  Dessert!  The Tiramisu!  *drool*  It was layered into a large martini glass and topped with tons of high quality chocolate shavings.  I had a perfectly created cappuccino with it and while you had to practically roll me out the door, it was worth every pound gained.

Tiramisu!
Of course, what Costa Rican restaurant would be complete without a kitty wandering about?

El gato de Café Viejo.
One other thing to mention is the "Watchy Man" that "guarded" Tony's Dad's car while we ate.  We sat in full view of the car (which is a very nice BMW, btw) to make sure no one messed with it.  I felt perfectly safe in Puerto Viejo, but there is still crime...especially involving nice cars.  I can't remember if I talked about the "Watchy Man" in Jaco or not, but this is a very common thing.  Men will guard your car for you, without being asked to do so, and when you get back to your car it is expected that you pay them something.  Basically, they keep other people from messing with your car but if you don't pay them they'll damage you or your car.  So, it's best to pay them.

After a magical meal that I hope to repeat some day, we headed to the hotel and crashed hard.  We had a big day of sitting at the beach and eating planned for the next day so we needed our rest.  I'm happy to say the mosquito net worked like a charm!

Saturday, October 15, 2011

{Costa Rica 2011} - Day 10 - Sloth Sanctuary!

Sloths!  I had one goal for this tour, and it was to hug a sloth.  I didn't get to do that.  Boo.  But I got to see awesome sloths of all sizes and that made me happy. :)

The Sloth Sanctuary of Costa Rica is a wonderful facility.  Here they take in orphaned and injured sloths and nurse them back to health with the goal of releasing them back into the wild.  There are many reasons that baby sloths are abandoned but the reason that adults end up in the sanctuary is usually more heart breaking.  Roads, power lines and other man made death traps are invading their forests.  Many are hit by cars or mistake live power lines for vines or tree branches and get electrocuted and severely burned.  Good samaritans often bring the injured and abandoned sloths to the rescue or call the staff to come and pick them up.  The rescue began when a an orphaned three fingered sloth was brought to the owners of what was then a hotel.  Knowing little about sloths, they began to research and found themselves drawn to the mission of helping preserve these amazing creatures.  That very first sloth was unable to be released into the wild and has been with them ever since.  Her name is Buttercup and she's awesome.
Buttercup in her swing greeting the visitors.

They have several adult sloths that are recuperating from injuries and some that will be permanent residents of the sanctuary like Buttercup.

No one knows if sloths are actually happy or not, but they're always smiling! That's just how their faces are shaped!
These two were hanging out together in the little sloth condos.
He had an itchy tummy, and a stuffed animal!
And of course there was a sloth nursery for the babies!  There were several cages with a variety of species in them.  Some were paired or grouped because they got along well and comforted each other and others had to be in cages alone.

Baby sloths!

There were even teeny tiny babies in a laundry bucket!  These photos are all a little blurry because we couldn't use flashes.

Babies in a bucket, eating some leaves.

Our guide was the son of the owner and was very knowledgeable about the sloths.  He held one of the young sloths and I was so very jealous!

Our guide and the young sloth.
This was probably my favorite baby sloth tho.  He had a broken arm and is healing with a little purple cast.  Look at that adorable face!  He was getting around really well in his cage and hanging from the branches so he's well on his way to recovery!

I want to boop his nose!
Our tour included a boat ride in their canals as well and there we saw a large male sloth climb all the way down to the ground and back up another tree.  It was incredible!  Just a sloth in the wild near a sloth rescue.  I was afraid he was going to poop because they apparently only come down to the ground to poop or change trees.  Luckily, this was a tree change. :)  Unfortunately my camera battery was dying and my spare was in the car so I couldn't get many photos of this.

Large male sloth.  You can tell by the markings on his back.

Climbing down the tree.
There was also an education center with a video and some interesting skeletal models and informative displays.


Skeletal displays.

Oh, and this sloth head cutout thingie.

I need more eyeliner to be a proper sloth.

The sloth sanctuary is well worth the visit and was an awesome experience.  They do great work there and I was touched by their obvious affection for the sloths.  It was $25 for the tour and worth every penny!

We got a little hot during our boat ride so we got some tasty beverages for the drive into Puerto Viejo!


Cheers to cold beer and AC!

Next post, Puerto Viejo!